Suffolk river ferries: Bawdsey - Felixstowe Ferry

Ferry boat arriving from Felixstowe at sunset, October 2020

The Bawdsey peninsula is a seriously pretty place to cycle through when the weather co-operates, with pleasant villages, forest lanes, and views over open fields and the Deben estuary under the wide Suffolk skies. It's the real essence of the Suffolk Coast and Heaths AONB. Bawdsey Manor even had a great historical role in the development of radar, and remained in RAF hands all through the Cold War until 1991. 

The hamlet of Bawdsey Quay, all picturesque at sunset and high tide. 

Bawdsey Quay is quite literally the end of the road: the tip of the peninsula is pleasantly quiet and picturesque with views of Felixstowe just across the river, but with no further to go. But instead of doubling back along the country roads, there's a much easier way to return to civilisation: a river ferry carrying foot passengers and bikes. 

The ferry is just about visible, slightly below and to the left of the Sun.

It was the Sunday when the clocks went back, and I went for a bike ride after lunch. I cycled a circular route around the Deben estuary: from Martlesham to Woodbridge and thence through several quaint villages to Bawdsey Quay, then taking the ferry to the hamlet of Felixstowe Ferry (named after said crossing) and back to Martlesham. As sunset was now an hour earlier than the day before, I arrived at the ferry jetty just in time for sunset - and what a sunset it was, through the masts of the sailing dinghies and yachts. 

Remarkably simple: just a skipper and a motor launch. 

There's no set timetable: you arrive at the quay during operating hours, and the skipper takes people across whenever they turn up. If the boat is at the opposite side of the river, then the quay has a bat to be waved to summon the boat. The boat itself is nothing special; just a motor launch with seating around the side and the most glorious of views. Bikes are carried just by lifting it into the boat and resting it on the side. 

Departing exactly at sunset: I didn't plan this, but it turned out very well indeed. 

When I took the ferry, there were a few other foot passengers waiting for the boat. It looked like the service was doing decent business: I just missed one departure with a couple of people, then I crossed together with three others, and when we arrived on the Felixstowe Ferry side there were another couple of passengers waiting to be taken across. 

The crossing takes only a couple of minutes, threading between yachts moored in the estuary. The views are excellent, with the sea and the river on either side, moored yachts all around, and sailing dinghy masts in the distance. I always enjoy Felixstowe Ferry, but it's particularly special on the water and even more so at this kind of time. 

Arrival at the hamlet of Felixstowe Ferry, named after exactly this ferry service. There's also a pub here called the Ferry Boat Inn. 

The skipper collected our fares at the end: £3 for a foot passenger, plus £2 for a bike, in cash only. His response to an enquiry of contactless payment was that there isn't any mobile signal; that's probably true. This is a sleepy seaside hamlet where the ferry boat arrives next to kids crabbing off a neighbouring quay, and where an ancient river ferry continues to shuttle passengers across just as it has done for centuries. Long may it continue. 

A boat that carries you across the river. No more, no less. Refreshingly simple in today's world.

Summary:

Date: Sunday 25th October 2020

Cost: £3 for a foot passenger, plus £2 for a bike. 

Ferry operating times: 1000-1800 daily April-September, plus 1000-1700 on weekends in October.