Suffolk river ferries: Butley to Orford

 

Rowing-boat ferry from Butley to Gedgrave and Orford, June 2022

My local OS map of Ipswich and southeast Suffolk - Explorer 197 - was what I used to plan my cycling trips around the rivers, heaths, village greens and medieval churches of Suffolk through the various 2020-2021 lockdowns. The Butley River snakes around the eastern edge of the map on its way into the River Ore and onward to the sea next to historic Orford Ness. The other side of the river was beyond the scope of the challenge I'd set myself, but the "Ferry P (limited service)" shown on the map almost sets a challenge to those who enjoy such explorations. So, I decided that on this pleasant summer's day, what better excuse for a bike ride than a rowing-boat ferry. 

Dating from the Norman era, the part-thatched church of St John the Baptist at Butley was a pleasant place to rest for a while cycling to the ferry. 

Butley village is already quite remote, with its few houses and its medieval church and abbey remains separated from the rest of Suffolk by Rendlesham Forest and the twin Cold War air bases of RAF Woodbridge and RAF Bentwaters. But the ferry is even more hidden away - accessed from the hamlet of Capel St Andrew, even the sign suggests a certain remoteness. 

The "no vehicles" harks back to a simpler era - the ferry dates from at least the 16th century, so in fact it's the motor car that is the interloper. 

Following the signs, the single-track road turns into an unpaved gravel track, which then emerges from the eponymous Butley Ferry Farm as a grass footpath through the marshes. 

The flags reassure the traveller that the ferry is running, fluttering above the marshes and the ferryman's hut and under the wide East Anglian sky. 

The path to the ferry quay gets progressively less paved and takes on a great sense of its history as a largely-unchanged, centuries-old crossing between the lands of the Augustinian monks at the former Butley Abbey. 

Through a gate is then the ferryman's hut and stairs to the sea wall with views all around the Butley estuary. 

I paid my ferry fare to a lady who understandably was enjoying the weather and the view next to the river instead of sitting in the ferryman's hut. 

A perfect day to be out on the water. 

On my visit, two walkers had arrived just before me and were soon crossing the water, with the ferryman rowing across. 

The volunteer ferryman had to put in quite a bit of effort against the wind and tide. The ferry is staffed entirely by volunteers with the Alde and Ore Association - hard work, but rewarding in such a beautiful location. 

Having paid my £3.50 to cross with my bike, it was then my turn. The ferryman was very friendly and clearly enjoyed his volunteer duties on the water. 

The wide but shallow estuary suits rowing as a propeller would easily foul the bottom of the river. 

The boardwalk to the quay on the Orford side of the river. 

The ferry originally ran between Boyton Dock and the end of the long, straight Gedgrave Road that runs from Orford directly to the site of the original quay, but was moved to its current location at the behest of Butley Abbey so that they would have a shorter journey. The route from the quay to Orford now thus winds along the sea wall and around the farm housing the Pinneys smokehouse before rejoining the straight lane to the original location of the ferry. 

The ruins of the original Boyton Dock are still there, unused after the ferry was moved centuries ago. 

Gedgrave Road is a straight line from Orford to the original ferry location, but the route from the current ferry now turns off part way along the lane. 

The ferry formed part of a circular bike ride from Wickham Market station to Wantisden, Butley, the Butley ferry, Orford, and Tunstall Forest for an excellent day out cycling around east Suffolk. 

The ferry fare is £2, plus £1.50 for a bike, cash only. It's a wonderfully simple yet beautiful experience, the very essence of the Suffolk Coast and Heaths AONB. 

Summary: 
Date: Sunday 26th June 2022
Cost: £2 for a foot passenger, plus £1.50 for a bike. 
The ferry times are seasonal, times and more information here. 


Bonus: While at Orford, I noticed the other local ferry, albeit a private one: from Orford Quay to the historic National Trust site of Orford Ness. 


Location: Butley Ferry, Woodbridge IP12, UK

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