Hong Kong to Tokyo overland

Hong Kong evening skyline
Hong Kong, as viewed from West Kowloon Cultural district, September 2023. 

After three years of zero-Covid policy, quarantines and closed borders, I had some paperwork to do in mainland China that required me to visit for the first time in four years. This was also at a time when I have friends living in nearby Hong Kong and Japan. Hence formed an idea for my usual kind of epic overland adventure, but on the other side of the world: Hong Kong to Japan without flying. How hard could it be? 

Overall, this was an outstanding trip, and a once-in-a-lifetime experience. It was very fun to experience so many cultures and traverse several countries over the space of three weeks, covering 5355 km by rail and another ~600 km by ferry. The fact that China to South Korea passenger ferries only restarted a few weeks before I used it, together with how the vast majority of passengers were local traders, means that I strongly suspect I am the first person to have done this journey since at least 2019. 

With thanks to JT, SB and SV for joining me along the way, and to the invaluable Seat61 for the inspiration and train/ferry information without which I couldn't have done this journey. 

Now, to business. The whole story would be far too long for a single post, so here are my observations for each section: 
Location: Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong

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